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LCD Problem
#11
hi Kamel,
did you buy Arduino Due authorized dealer? Because there a lot of clone product in market.
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#12
Hey Ed,
thanks for the quick response.
Cleaning the board solved at least the problem with one of the buttons.
The display is still distorted.


Hello hgokhan,
I bought almost everything here:
http://shop.kids-of-all-ages.de/
well, it's not an official Arduino reseller.
But I don't think they sell fake ones.
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#13
State update:

I guess, I messed things up completely Undecided
I cleaned the PCB and all the solder joints again (with isopropyl alcohol from the pharmacy)
When I turn on the miniE, the screen turns completely white (it's in 16bit mode),
after about 10 seconds, the screen turns off.
Pushing one of the buttons or turning the rotary encoder turns it on again.

The board is kind of glossy. After cleaning with the isopropyl alcohol, it's kind of dull. Is that normal?

And is it normal that the pins of the Arduino board are hardly inside of the SPI header as shown in the picture?

Thanks for your help
Matthias


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
   
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#14
(07-22-2014, 03:54 PM)Kamel Wrote: State update:

I guess, I messed things up completely Undecided
I cleaned the PCB and all the solder joints again (with isopropyl alcohol from the pharmacy)
When I turn on the miniE, the screen turns completely white (it's in 16bit mode),
after about 10 seconds, the screen turns off.
Pushing one of the buttons or turning the rotary encoder turns it on again.

The board is kind of glossy. After cleaning with the isopropyl alcohol, it's kind of dull. Is that normal?

And is it normal that the pins of the Arduino board are hardly inside of the SPI header as shown in the picture?

Thanks for your help
Matthias

I catch a glimpse of a 6-pin female header pins are too short, it can be checked by using a multitester on foot sloder in SPI, check whether there is a relationship between the Minie Arduino board.

I use a pin header like this http://www.pololu.com/product/1023, incidentally already included in minie shield PCB v2 package - http://shop.airiclenz.com/product_info.php/products_id/38

I hope you do not buy clone Arduino, Arduino buy at authorized dealers.

hopefully can help you

regards,
Ed
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#15
(07-22-2014, 03:54 PM)Kamel Wrote: State update:

I guess, I messed things up completely Undecided
I cleaned the PCB and all the solder joints again (with isopropyl alcohol from the pharmacy)
When I turn on the miniE, the screen turns completely white (it's in 16bit mode),
after about 10 seconds, the screen turns off.
Pushing one of the buttons or turning the rotary encoder turns it on again.

The board is kind of glossy. After cleaning with the isopropyl alcohol, it's kind of dull. Is that normal?

And is it normal that the pins of the Arduino board are hardly inside of the SPI header as shown in the picture?

Thanks for your help
Matthias

Hello Matthias,

that that display backlight is working (white screen) and turning on again after key presses means the software is running perfectly. The only issue seems to be either the display itself or one or more connections to the display (solder joint). Because the display was kind of working before cleaning everything, I guess it is a problem with your soldering. Can you please try to re-solder (re-heat) all solder joints that go to the display header? Please be careful not to overheat the joints as this might destroy the PCB. When using 300°C - 330°C a 2 second re-heating should fix a soldering issue.

When using an original Arduino DUE and fully inserting the shield into the Arduino, the PCI header should have good contact to the shield. This is only needed for SD card access though and has nothing to do with the display itself.

Good luck,
Airic
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#16
Quote:Hello Matthias,

that that display backlight is working (white screen) and turning on again after key presses means the software is running perfectly. The only issue seems to be either the display itself or one or more connections to the display (solder joint). Because the display was kind of working before cleaning everything, I guess it is a problem with your soldering. Can you please try to re-solder (re-heat) all solder joints that go to the display header? Please be careful not to overheat the joints as this might destroy the PCB. When using 300°C - 330°C a 2 second re-heating should fix a soldering issue.

When using an original Arduino DUE and fully inserting the shield into the Arduino, the PCI header should have good contact to the shield. This is only needed for SD card access though and has nothing to do with the display itself.

Good luck,
Airic

Hey Airic,
thanks for the response!

The issue with the white screen is gone! Smile
After several times of resoldering and cleaning, the rotary encoder still doesn't work when turning it. The 'button function' works fine. Even calling the pop up menu works.
Then I changed the rotary encoder with a similiar one. First it worked perfectly. Suddenly it stopped to work, when turning it. The encoder's button still works.
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#17
(08-03-2014, 02:16 PM)Kamel Wrote: After several times of resoldering and cleaning, the rotary encoder still doesn't work when turning it. The 'button function' works fine. Even calling the pop up menu works.
Then I changed the rotary encoder with a similiar one. First it worked perfectly. Suddenly it stopped to work, when turning it. The encoder's button still works.

Can you post some photos of your board (with disconnected display) so that I can have a look? It is important that the pictures are high resolution and sharp though.

Thanks!
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#18
Short explanation to the messy looking parts:
-Wires instead of buttons: These are connectors from modelmaking, so I can easily decide, where to integrate them into the housing later
- That weird thing between S1 and R9 on the backside:
I guess I destroyed the connection on topside, so I improvised with a small 'bridge'. Although it looks messy, the buttons work fine!

I tested the camera connection as well. When I start with the default settings, the cam takes pictures properly.

I uploaded the pictures to dropbox, so you can watch them in original resolution:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4hhmxwk41657w1g/IMG_0471.JPG
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fy6ul9ii2sxjud9/IMG_0473.JPG
https://www.dropbox.com/s/rwkzillbu1495y5/IMG_0475.JPG

Thanks,
Matthias
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#19
(08-04-2014, 01:07 PM)Kamel Wrote: Then I changed the rotary encoder with a similiar one. First it worked perfectly. Suddenly it stopped to work, when turning it.

Ok, it is hard to tell if all the solder points are working as some might be sold joints from what I can see. Your above explanation though leads to the assumption that there is a intermittent problem somewhere which could be caused by such a cold solder joints.

Please re-heat the connections of the following components or pins as these are the ones that are involved in the rotary-action circuit (Remeber to not overheat the components to much and a little bit of solder-flux works real wonders!!):
  • Rotary encoder
  • R13
  • R16
  • R19
  • R20
  • C5
  • C6
  • U3
  • digital Pin 44
  • digital Pin 45

There are also some really great soldering tutorials on YouTube (which I also watched to improve my soldering skills Wink )

Good luck,
Airic
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#20
Smile 
Hi Airic, hope you are in a good health Wink

Please help me, with my lcd... the screen is always fading away after several seconds. Sometimes, the screen stays for quite long, about 30 seconds to 1 minutes, after then it's fading again.

I thought, it is my backlight setting, I've tried to set it up to 120 second but still the fading is there, before the 120 seconds is reach.

I've try my best to solve it. I tried to re-solder the miniEngine Shield again, as someone having the dry-joint soldering. I also tried with another Arduino DUE, thought might be the problem is the Arduino DUE, but it is not. I also tried to change the lcd screen with the other one, but the fading is still there.

I've also ask one of my friend, he said it might be the capacitor has gone, problem. But he also, didn't know which capacitor is defected. I'm sorry, I didn't know anything about that Confused

So, Airic... What is your opinion? Is it true the capacitor problem?

Here, is my video... let you see it





Thanks Airic Wink
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