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First try on the miniE
#1
First post on this forum.
I was thinking since it seems quite a few people build and use Airic's miniE, I should share some of my experience building it.
I've been wanting to do timelapse for years and had a few tries just connecting the camera to the laptop and using mostly free software. Well that works OK but - I wanted MOTION!
So after searching endless hours for camera motion gear that wouldn't break the bank I stumbled upon openmoco and finally here on Airic's little shop.
Well I'm the kind of guy that loves to make stuff myself so after a qiuck round of ordering, I was deep in a new project! Long story short, the attached picture shows what came out so far.
I built my own little CNC machine a couple of years ago so I mostly make all needed parts myself...Big Grin
OK. More to come - now need sleep.

   
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#2
Really beautiful box.
Could you share some design specifics?
Like how you handled the short buttons? Or what about the screen brightness pot that stand tall and cumbersome
on the original LCD shield?
Since I'm in the process fo creating my own case, I'd appreciate your knowledge.
Thanks
Adi
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#3
Welcome to the forum and thanks for your feedback! This is the stuff that keeps me going!

Your case looks beautiful - perfectly rugged and well designed. Which materiel is is made from?

...and thanks for putting my name on it - I hope yours is there too! Wink

Cheers,
A.
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#4
Hi folks!
Thanks for the nice compliments!
The box is actually from elfa.se and the partnumber is 50-708-59. Really good quality boxes from Hammond Mfg. It is made of extruded aluminum with removable front and has ABS plastic sidepanels.

I have the DFRobot LCD shield v.1.1 with longer buttons so they fit nicely in the box. And I just removed all the header pins since I don't need them, and I moved the contrast pot to the back side of the shield - it needed adjusting only once anyway ;-).

Well as I had only one try on machining the front panel I just ordered another box since I'm not completely satisfied with the outcome.
So I'm re-designing it a little bit:

- Machining new larger buttons to place ontop of the shield buttons - the shield buttons are just.. too small!

- moving the electronics further back in the box so I can add a plexiglass layer ontop of the LCD and behind the front panel

- Omit the large ugly cooling fin for the BigEasyDriver. I've ordered the EasyDriver 4.4 to add directly on the miniE shield.

- updating the front panel design a little and maybe add my own name too! :-)

My slider is the Glidetrack HD 1,5m. I'm using this geared stepper motor from Robotshop - Product code : RB-Phi-131. Incredibly strong motor!
   
I've made a provisional motor bracket from 50x50x5mm aluminum angle material. It really needs re-designing...

I'm going to take more pics as I progress the next few days and add them here.
Oh by the way here's the first piece of timelapse I did the other day
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Djjybz2yi0
Raw film straight from the camera, thru Time-lapse on my Mac and right to youtube... ;-)
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#5
Very interesting - this thing with the "LCD shield v.1.1 with longer buttons" keeps coming up, although searching for one brings no results. Seems like a chance thing with some of the buyers. If someone finds a direct link to one, please share.
The motor seems interesting as well - what camera does it carry?
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#6
(05-15-2013, 11:10 PM)Bentare Wrote: ...Omit the large ugly cooling fin for the BigEasyDriver.

I like the cooling fan on the outside! It add something "heavy duty" to the case Wink

Please keep in mind that the regular EasyDriver only delivers 0.75A but with your geared motor you should still have enough power to move your slider even with wild angles.

(05-15-2013, 11:10 PM)Bentare Wrote: My slider is the Glidetrack HD 1,5m. I'm using this geared stepper motor from Robotshop - Product code : RB-Phi-131. Incredibly strong motor!

http://forum.airiclenz.com/showthread.php?tid=35

Wink

...and a final word from my side: I wish I had a CNC too!

A.
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#7
(05-16-2013, 07:38 AM)Soffer Wrote: Very interesting - this thing with the "LCD shield v.1.1 with longer buttons" keeps coming up, although searching for one brings no results. Seems like a chance thing with some of the buyers. If someone finds a direct link to one, please share.
The motor seems interesting as well - what camera does it carry?

The shield was ordered from robotshop. The picture on their website show the v1.0 version, but I got the v1.1 when I ordered...
The geared stepper is from the same place and it should deliver over 16 Kg/cm @ 1.68A... I'm running it at about 0.9A - lifting my 4Kg rig vertical with ease! ;-) The only thing being scary is if it loses steps it will fall like a rock!

BA
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#8
(05-16-2013, 10:19 AM)Airic Lenz Wrote:
(05-15-2013, 11:10 PM)Bentare Wrote: ...Omit the large ugly cooling fin for the BigEasyDriver.

I like the cooling fan on the outside! It add something "heavy duty" to the case Wink

Please keep in mind that the regular EasyDriver only delivers 0.75A but with your geared motor you should still have enough power to move your slider even with wild angles.

(05-15-2013, 11:10 PM)Bentare Wrote: My slider is the Glidetrack HD 1,5m. I'm using this geared stepper motor from Robotshop - Product code : RB-Phi-131. Incredibly strong motor!

http://forum.airiclenz.com/showthread.php?tid=35

Wink

...and a final word from my side: I wish I had a CNC too!

A.

Hehe!
The router is alot og fun and very precise with all kinds og non-metal materials. It even does well on aluminium, tho slower. But it is a very time-consuming hobby! :-) I got it from John at http://www.microcarve.com - a hobby machinist who has made these for years. He's a really great guy!

BA
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#9
Hi, again!
I promised some more details on the box build I've done so far.

Here's a picture of the contrast pot mod I did
   
Just de-soldered it and moved it to the back of the board.

And here's what the LCD shield looks like after removing the header pins that I don't need
   
Notice the "LCD Keypad Shield V1.1" below the DFRobot logo.
As you can see it has the longer button shafts.

Next is the spacer made of plexiglas to position the LCD in the correct depth in the front panel
   
Notice the long notch adding free space for the LCD header pins.

And for anyone caring, the machined heat sink, which I will eventually "shrink" a little and place inside the next box
   

...And a little detail on the wiring from the miniE shield to the BED and DIN connector
   

At first I added a 2.5mm jack connector to the box serving as the camera focus/trigger cable connector. But having two cables going from the box to the rig was asking for tangles... so I just re-soldered the focus/trigger output from the miniE shield directly to the 7-pin DIN connector. Using a 7-lead cable there was enough leads for both motor and focus/trigger ;-)

Enjoy and please ask if something is unclear! ;-)

Bent Are
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#10
This looks very well done! I wished I had a case like this.

How are your experiences with the BED placed not directly on the shield but in its own dedicated spot in the box?

Airic
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